Top 10 poisonous plants to avoid in your pets!

Autumn Crocus
There are two Crocus plants: one that blooms in the spring (Crocus species) and the other in the autumn Colchicum autumnale). The spring plants are more common and are part of the Iridaceae family. These ingestions can cause general gastrointestinal upset including vomiting and diarrhea. These should not be mistaken for Autumn Crocus, part of the Liliaceae family, which contain colchicine. The Autumn Crocus is highly toxic and can cause severe vomiting, gastrointestinal bleeding, liver and kidney damage, and respiratory failure. If you’re not sure what plant it is, bring your pet to their veterinarian immediately for care. Signs may be seen immediately but can be delayed for days.

Azalea
In the same family as rhododendrons, azaleas can have serious effects on pets. Eating even a few leaves can result in vomiting, diarrhea and excessive drooling; without immediate veterinary attention, the pet could fall into a coma and possibly die.

Cyclamen
The roots of this seasonal flowering plant are especially dangerous to pets. If ingested, cyclamen can cause severe vomiting and even death.

Kalanchoe
This popular flowering succulent plant can cause vomiting, diarrhea and heart arrhythmias if ingested by pets.

Lily
There are dangerous and benign lilies out there, and it’s important to know the difference. Peace, Peruvian, and Calla lilies contain oxalate crystals that cause minor signs, such as tissue irritation to the mouth, tongue, pharynx, and esophagus – this results in minor drooling. The more dangerous, potentially fatal lilies are true lilies, and these include Tiger, Day, Asiatic, Easter and Japanese Show lilies – all of which are highly toxic to cats! Even small ingestions (such as 2-3 petals or leaves) can result in severe kidney failure. If your cat is seen consuming any part of a lily, bring your cat (and the plant) immediately to a veterinarian for medical care. The sooner you bring in your cat, the better and more efficiently we can treat the poisoning. Decontamination (like inducing vomiting and giving binders like activated charcoal) are imperative in the early toxic stage, while aggressive intravenous fluid therapy, kidney function monitoring tests, and supportive care can greatly improve the prognosis.

Oleander
Oleander is an outdoor shrub, popular for its evergreen qualities and delicate flowers. However, the leaves and flowers are extremely toxic if ingested and can cause severe vomiting, slow the heart rate and possibly even cause death.

Dieffenbachia
Popular in many homes and offices, dieffenbachia can cause intense oral irritation, drooling, nausea, vomiting and difficulty swallowing if ingested.

Daffodils
These flowers contain lycorine, an alkaloid with strong emetic properties (something that triggers vomiting). Ingestion of the bulb, plant or flower can cause severe vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and even possible cardiac arrhythmias or respiratory depression. Crystals are found in the outer layer of the bulbs, similar to hyacinths, which cause severe tissue irritation and secondary drooling. Daffodil ingestions can result in more severe symptoms so if an exposure is witnessed or symptoms are seen, we recommend seeking veterinary care for further supportive care.

Lily of the Valley
The Convallaria majalis plant contains cardiac glycosides which will cause symptoms similar to digitalis (foxglove) ingestion. These symptoms include vomiting, diarrhea, a drop in heart rate, severe cardiac arrhythmias, and possibly seizures. Pets with any known exposure to this plant should be examined and evaluated by a veterinarian and treated symptomatically.

Sago Palm
Very popular in warmer climates, this household and outdoor plant can be very harmful to pets. If ingested, the leaves and seeds can cause vomiting, bloody stools, damage to the stomach lining, severe liver failure and, in some cases, death.

Tulips and Hyacinths
Tulips contain allergenic lactones while hyacinths contain similar alkaloids. The toxic principle of these plants is very concentrated in the bulbs (versus the leaf or flower), so make sure your dog isn’t digging up the bulbs in the garden. When the plant parts or bulbs are chewed or ingested, it can result in tissue irritation to the mouth and esophagus. Typical signs include profuse drooling, vomiting, or even diarrhea, depending on the amount consumed. There’s no specific antidote, but with supportive care from the veterinarian (including rinsing the mouth, anti-vomiting medication, and possibly subcutaneous fluids), animals do quite well. With large ingestions of the bulb, more severe symptoms such as an increase in heart rate and changes in respiration can be seen, and should be treated by a veterinarian. These more severe signs are seen in cattle or our overzealous, chowhound Labradors.

This information was obtained with permission from www.petpoisonhelpline.com. Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) is an Animal Poison Control that provides treatment advice and recommendations relating to exposures to potential dangerous plants, products, medications, and substances, to veterinarians, veterinary staff and pet owners 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Please be aware there is a $35/per case consultation fee. Pet Poison Helpline is located in Bloomington, Minnesota. The Helpline number is 1-800-213-6680.

If you suspect your pet has ingested any of these items or any other questionable substance, call Pet Poison Helpline or your veterinarian for assistance. Accurate and timely identification of the suspected substance is very important. Having the container, package, or label in hand will save valuable time and may save the life of your pet.

German translation!

How exciting to see that my book It's a Dog's Life... but It's Your Carpet was translated into German Warum der Schwanz mit dem Hund wedelt. At least, that's what the title is supposed to be!

Product review of "MUTTOS" treats for dogs

Once again, I feel like I might have the most finicky, palate-discriminating dog out there. JP, my 11 year old pit bull, turned up his nose to the newest Cloud Star dog treat: muttos (peanut butter and green apple). These treats come in several flavors: duck and sweet potato; turkey and cranberry; and oatmeal and blueberry. This treat is basically two flavors and two pieces of a treat combined into one (i.e., a green apple hard core with a hard peanut butter/whole wheat base around it). These biscuits supposedly are "easy to split," thanks to the scored line down the middle, but I found that my 5'4" 120 lb frame is likely too strong for them (as the biscuit crumbles into lots of crumbs, while splitting in between the two flavors).

I have been putting these into the center of JP's Kong toy, and he'll eventually eat them, but they aren't the top treat that he reaches for. That said, any normal dog that likes dry treats will likely enjoy them. The other benefit is what you see on the ingredients is what you get - it contains the following American-made ingredients: whole wheat flour, ground oats, expeller pressed canola oil, peanut butter, apples, sea salt, chlorophyll (natural coloring agent - the green from plants), and mixed toxopherols (natural preservative). Overall, I didn't (well, JP didn't) find the taste irresistable, but I rest assured in knowing that the ingredients are all pretty top notch.

Compost bins are toxic to your dog!

While I applaud you for composting, make sure to do so appropriately – your compost shouldn’t contain any dairy or meat products, and should always be fenced off for the sake of your pets and wildlife. These piles of decomposing and decaying organic matter and molding food products have the potential to contain tremorgenic mycotoxins, which are toxic to both pets and wildlife. Even small amounts ingested can result in clinical signs within 30 minutes to several hours.

Clinical signs include agitation, hyperthermia, hyper-responsiveness, panting, drooling, and vomiting, and can progress to serious CNS signs (including incoordination, tremors, and seizures!). Ruleouts for this include toxins that cause “shake and bake,” such as metaldehydes (snail bait), strychnine, organophosphates, and methylxanthines. Prompt decontamination is the key if the patient isn’t demonstrating clinical signs yet – this includes inducing vomiting and giving activated charcoal. Once the patient is symptomatic, aggressive supportive care includes the use of IV fluids, temperature regulation, cooling methods (cooling down to a temperature of 103.5 F/39.7 C), IV muscle relaxants (i.e., methocarbamol), and anticonvulsants (i.e., diazepam, phenobarbital).

Spare your pet the trauma and you the cost and fence off your compost bin!

Blue-green algae toxicity to your pets!

Given the very hot weather that many areas of the country have been experiencing recently, blue-green algae may become a problem earlier this year than in past years. Blue- green algae blooms typically occur during the hot, long days of late summer in both fresh and salt water throughout the United States. Blooms have the appearance of thick mats or carpets of algae that are pea green or blue-green on the surface. These algae blooms may contain hepatoxins and/or neurotoxins. Dogs that swim and livestock that may graze in the water are most commonly affected.

Symptoms that are seen with the neurotoxin form or blue-green algae toxicity can include salivation, lacrimation, urination, diarrhea (SLUD) muscle rigidity, dyspnea (difficulty breathing), pulmonary edema, tremors, seizures and paralysis. Symptoms are rapidly occurring, generally within an hour of exposure. Many animals will die with in 24 hours of exposure.

The hepatoxin form of blue-green algae result in lethargy, weakness, vomiting and diarrhea that is many times bloody, depression and shock follow. Symptoms generally occur with 1 to 4 hours of exposure and death can occur in 24 hours to several days as the liver continues to fail. Once animals begin to exhibit symptoms from blue-green algae, their prognosis is very grave. Not all blue-green algae contain the toxin producing bacteria but all blooms should be considered potentially dangerous. Keeping dogs out of the water where any algae bloom is present is best method of prevention.

Emergencies: Toxic hazards in the home!

Kudos to PetCare TV who featured Pet Poison Helpline in their latest education video on toxic hazards in the home! Click here to check out the informative video!

Prevention magazine: August 2009 Fleas and ticks!

Flea-Proof Your Pets: How to keep your dog, cat and house free from these oh-so-common pests.

If you have pets, fleas are a fact of life. Nearly half of all dogs and cats become infested with them at some point—despite the over $1 billion Americans spend annually on products to control the pesky critters. Once your pet has them (those that play outdoors are especially susceptible), you’ll find that fleas can rapidly take over your house. They can also cause your animal serious illness, including hair loss, dermatitis, and tapeworms (because they’re hosts to the worms’ eggs). Fleas may even carry bacteria that are contagious to humans. But you can keep fleas at bay—or prevent them in the first place—with these three easy steps:

Prevent an infestation
Save yourself a lot of trouble by using a topical prescription preventative such as Program or Frontline Plus every 30 days (but especially during warm-weather months). Both are liquids that are applied between a cat or dog’s shoulder blades and keep infant fleas from developing into full-blown adults. If you have a dog, you can also opt for pills that have the same effect; they are usually given once a month and come combined with heartworm medication. These products are safe, as they are absorbed into your pet’s skin and hair but not his body. They are also more effective than OTC home and lawn sprays, flea collars, bug bombs, shampoos, and dips, which are potentially toxic to you and your pet.

Spot them—and destroy them—fast
Sometimes an infestation occurs despite your best efforts, so if you notice early symptoms (such as your pet’s excessive scratching or small, itchy flea bites on you, the owner!), here’s what to look for: The pesky critters are the size of the tip of a pencil, so if you separate your animal’s hair to look for them, they’re visible to the naked eye. They most commonly hide on or around your pet’s lower back, tail, belly, inner thighs, and neck. A flea comb, which has fine teeth, will snag both the bugs and flea dirt: small, black specks of dried blood that turn red when you sprinkle them on a wet paper towel.

Get rid of them for good
If you find evidence of an infestation, move to a vet-recommended topical product that will rid your pet of adult fleas once and for all. Unfortunately, the fleas have to bite your pet for the pesticides to take effect—but it’s the easiest, safest, and most effective way of eliminating them. Your pet gets relief in 5 minutes and could be flea-free in as little as 12 hours.

Get rid of fleas hopping around your home by vacuuming frequently to suck up adults and eggs lying on the carpet, furniture, and pet beds. Throw away the vacuum bag away immediately, or fleas will crawl back out, re-infesting your house.

Biography:
Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC is a veterinary emergency critical-care specialist and the associate director of veterinary services at Pet Poison Helpline. She is the author of It’s a Cat’s World…You Just Live in It and It’s a Dog’s Life… but It’s Your Carpet.

Copyright Prevention magazine, August 2009.

EPA spot-on problems - how to avoid a flea and tick preventative problem!

When it comes to properly using and applying flea and tick medications, here are some important considerations:

1. Make sure you know the exact weight of your pet before purchasing a product. Your vet should allow you to weigh your pet for free! This is important because a lot of toxicities seen with flea and tick medication are from inappropriate dosing. Never guess your pet's weight. As a comparison, keep in mind that one gallon of milk weighs approximately 8 pounds.

2. Read the package directions, and then read them again! Despite the small print, it's important to know how to properly apply the flea and tick product. We see lots of inadvertent, unintentional toxicities from pet owners applying the product onto the wrong sized animal, the wrong species (putting a dog product on a cat), and by the wrong route (i.e., some people accidentally give the product orally instead of dermally on the skin!).

3. If you have both cats and dogs, beware. Certain types of flea and tick preventative are very safe for dogs, but very toxic to cats. Using a "small dog" product on a cat can result in life-threatening tremors, seizures, and even death if untreated! If you just applied the product to your dog, and your cat grooms or rubs himself onto the dog (and ointment), toxicity can occur! Separating pets until the product is completely dried is important!

4. When in doubt, call for help. If you think you applied the product erroneously, or if your pet develops adverse reactions, call your veterinarian immediately. In addition, there is often a medical information phone number listed on the packaging - these are typically open 24/7, so when in doubt, call for medical advice!

5. Make sure to always store the box, packaging, and tubing all together, so you have all the information in one area. After using the product, hang on to box for few days, in the event of a reaction.

6. Never, ever split the product. In other words, don't buy a big dog flea and tick product to split and apply onto two medium-sized dogs. This is very dangerous, and the product is not labeled or intended to be split this way.

	Volunteering as an Iditarod Race Veterinarian The Iditarod Race, also called “The Last Great Race on Earth,” started in 1973 to remember and honor the sled dog trip in 1925 that saved many of the children of Nome, Alaska. The children of Nome needed a vaccine or serum to prevent them from getting diphtheria, but the weather was too bad to take it by train or plane. So they used sled dogs to take the serum to Nome on the Iditarod trail. Today, the lives of the sled dogs that participate in the race each year are kept safe and healthy by volunteer veterinarians who go to Alaska and donate their time to take care of the sled dogs during the race. Justine Lee, DVM is a veterinarian who has volunteered seven times for the Iditarod. Dr. Lee said, “I decided to be a vet when I was 7. I always loved pets when I was a child, from wildlife to farm animals to a few household pets that we had, and honestly I don’t know what I would be if not a vet…so this has just been a dream of mine.” Justine took several chemistry, biology, and math courses in junior high and high school to help her prepare for becoming a vet. Justine became interested in the Iditarod in vet school, so when she was in her fourth year of veterinary school she volunteered on the Iditarod as a special research project. “That’s where I developed my passion for sled dog medicine. It’s unique in that it’s very, very different from companion animal medicine (taking care of pet dogs). It’s elite, marathon athletes that we’re working with.” A few days before the race, all the vets meet at the Iditarod headquarters in Wasilla to examine approximately 80 teams of dogs that are racing. “All of the dogs that race have pre-race veterinary physical examinations; blood work to check their kidney function, liver function, white and red blood cells; and a heart monitor test performed (an electrocardiogram, or EKG). We also scan the dogs to make sure that they’re micro-chipped appropriately, and we check their vaccine records to make sure they are all up-to-date on their vaccines. The microchips are to make sure that all dogs are accounted for (the same dogs that finish the race must have started the race).” After the race begins, veterinarians travel to and stay overnight at the first of the 20 or so various checkpoints on the trail and await the arrival of each race team. A checkpoint is where the teams stop along the trail and rest. During the rest period, the vets examine the dogs. The sleeping accommodations for the vets at each checkpoint can differ widely, and they are not always very comfortable. At some checkpoints, the vets are sleeping on the gym floor at the community center, while at others, they may have to stay in a freezing cold tent, or in a small cabin with no heat or running water. Even so, Justine says, “It’s really a fun trip for all the veterinarians and all the volunteers who help out on the trip.” Justine believes it is important for the vets to be at the Iditarod Race because, “We as vets want to make sure the dogs are healthy. We’re looking out for the best welfare of the dogs. We are the ones who, besides the mushers, are examining every single dog that comes into a checkpoint. We’re examining, on average, around 1,000 dogs per day just to make sure they’re all healthy.” According to Justine, volunteering at the race is a tiring but rewarding experience. “It’s a great experience because you meet phenomenal people and fantastic dogs. You get to explore certain parts of Alaska that no one else has ever been to. It’s really ‘bush Alaska’ that you’re seeing. A lot of local, native villagers come out to visit all the volunteers during the race, so you get to learn about the local Athabascan or Inuit culture, and you get to meet local kids and teachers. It’s a great way of experiencing a little bit of everything, all within a 2-week period of time.” Justine says there are several characteristics that make a good Iditarod vet. “The first important quality would be flexibility, because plans and logistics change all the time. The next would be cooperativeness, which makes you a good team player. Communication and team work are so important when you’re working in really harsh conditions—weather-wise, eating-wise, and sleeping-wise.” When asked if she will volunteer at the Iditarod again, Justine says, “I plan to continue it for a long time. Many of us take time out of our practice to do this, most often using our vacation time, but it’s definitely worth it to make sure these dogs are healthy. It’s also a great way to see bush Alaska and surround yourself with fantastic people and great working dogs. So, yes, I’ll definitely do it again!” Justine advises any young person who is thinking about becoming a veterinarian to “Stick with your dreams and work really hard. Because, ultimately, the road to vet school is long, but it’s worth it. It’s a unique, diverse field where you can do whatever you want. If you want to work in a zoo, if you want to work with sea animals, or if you want to work in the middle of Alaska with Iditarod sled dogs, you can. There’s so much diversity and opportunity for veterinarians out there." Volunteering as an Iditarod Race Veterinarian The Iditarod Race, also called “The Last Great Race on Earth,” started in 1973 to remember and honor the sled dog trip in 1925 that saved many of the children of Nome, Alaska. The children of Nome needed a vaccine or serum to prevent them from getting diphtheria, but the weather was too bad to take it by train or plane. So they used sled dogs to take the serum to Nome on the Iditarod trail. Today, the lives of the sled dogs that participate in the race each year are kept safe and healthy by volunteer veterinarians who go to Alaska and donate their time to take care of the sled dogs during the race. Justine Lee, DVM is a veterinarian who has volunteered seven times for the Iditarod. Dr. Lee said, “I decided to be a vet when I was 7. I always loved pets when I was a child, from wildlife to farm animals to a few household pets that we had, and honestly I don’t know what I would be if not a vet…so this has just been a dream of mine.” Justine took several chemistry, biology, and math courses in junior high and high school to help her prepare for becoming a vet. Justine became interested in the Iditarod in vet school, so when she was in her fourth year of veterinary school she volunteered on the Iditarod as a special research project. “That’s where I developed my passion for sled dog medicine. It’s unique in that it’s very, very different from companion animal medicine (taking care of pet dogs). It’s elite, marathon athletes that we’re working with.” A few days before the race, all the vets meet at the Iditarod headquarters in Wasilla to examine approximately 80 teams of dogs that are racing. “All of the dogs that race have pre-race veterinary physical examinations; blood work to check their kidney function, liver function, white and red blood cells; and a heart monitor test performed (an electrocardiogram, or EKG). We also scan the dogs to make sure that they’re micro-chipped appropriately, and we check their vaccine records to make sure they are all up-to-date on their vaccines. The microchips are to make sure that all dogs are accounted for (the same dogs that finish the race must have started the race).” After the race begins, veterinarians travel to and stay overnight at the first of the 20 or so various checkpoints on the trail and await the arrival of each race team. A checkpoint is where the teams stop along the trail and rest. During the rest period, the vets examine the dogs. The sleeping accommodations for the vets at each checkpoint can differ widely, and they are not always very comfortable. At some checkpoints, the vets are sleeping on the gym floor at the community center, while at others, they may have to stay in a freezing cold tent, or in a small cabin with no heat or running water. Even so, Justine says, “It’s really a fun trip for all the veterinarians and all the volunteers who help out on the trip.” Justine believes it is important for the vets to be at the Iditarod Race because, “We as vets want to make sure the dogs are healthy. We’re looking out for the best welfare of the dogs. We are the ones who, besides the mushers, are examining every single dog that comes into a checkpoint. We’re examining, on average, around 1,000 dogs per day just to make sure they’re all healthy.” According to Justine, volunteering at the race is a tiring but rewarding experience. “It’s a great experience because you meet phenomenal people and fantastic dogs. You get to explore certain parts of Alaska that no one else has ever been to. It’s really ‘bush Alaska’ that you’re seeing. A lot of local, native villagers come out to visit all the volunteers during the race, so you get to learn about the local Athabascan or Inuit culture, and you get to meet local kids and teachers. It’s a great way of experiencing a little bit of everything, all within a 2-week period of time.” Justine says there are several characteristics that make a good Iditarod vet. “The first important quality would be flexibility, because plans and logistics change all the time. The next would be cooperativeness, which makes you a good team player. Communication and team work are so important when you’re working in really harsh conditions—weather-wise, eating-wise, and sleeping-wise.” When asked if she will volunteer at the Iditarod again, Justine says, “I plan to continue it for a long time. Many of us take time out of our practice to do this, most often using our vacation time, but it’s definitely worth it to make sure these dogs are healthy. It’s also a great way to see bush Alaska and surround yourself with fantastic people and great working dogs. So, yes, I’ll definitely do it again!” Justine advises any young person who is thinking about becoming a veterinarian to “Stick with your dreams and work really hard. Because, ultimately, the road to vet school is long, but it’s worth it. It’s a unique, diverse field where you can do whatever you want. If you want to work in a zoo, if you want to work with sea animals, or if you want to work in the middle of Alaska with Iditarod sled dogs, you can. There’s so much diversity and opportunity for veterinarians out there.”